It is also an advantage to apply a deep mulch to the ground, if the material is available. A great many growers do not incorporate any manure in the ground at digging, preferring to reserve all.
Whatever is used it is essential to spray or dust at no greater watering, even if this means spraying or dusting several times in one week, taking care to cover both the upper and underside of the foliage, with particular attention to the growing points.
For applying insecticides in spray form the small hand pressure sprays are hard to beat if only a comparatively few plants are grown, as they are easy to use and most economical. For greater numbers of plants, the stirrup pump type of spray is quite effective, though perhaps a little heavy on insecticide, or there are quite large pressure sprays available which are really excellent. They are rather expensive as an initial outlay, but this is offset by the saving in the quantity of insecticide used and the comparative ease of application.
In addition a good deep mulch will tend to smother weed growth, because even strong growing weeds require light immediately after germination from seed, and this requirement is automatically denied them. The exceptions that manage to thrust their way through the mulch are generally suffering from the effects of etiolation and are spindly, puny caricatures of their normal selves.
With regards to the weed problem, it was mentioned earlier in this chapter that it is essential to keep the dahlia plot free from weeds by regular hoeing. This is very true in the first few weeks after planting, but after this, say from the middle of July onwards, a hoe may well cause more harm than good because its over zealous use may damage the young feeder roots, which will have spread well out over the ground by this time, as well as being very close to the surface.
From this stage onwards it is better to keep the weeds down by hand pulling. The wisdom of providing wider pathways every other row will be easily seen, otherwise the whole of the dahlia plot would become hard trodden. - 22375
Whatever is used it is essential to spray or dust at no greater watering, even if this means spraying or dusting several times in one week, taking care to cover both the upper and underside of the foliage, with particular attention to the growing points.
For applying insecticides in spray form the small hand pressure sprays are hard to beat if only a comparatively few plants are grown, as they are easy to use and most economical. For greater numbers of plants, the stirrup pump type of spray is quite effective, though perhaps a little heavy on insecticide, or there are quite large pressure sprays available which are really excellent. They are rather expensive as an initial outlay, but this is offset by the saving in the quantity of insecticide used and the comparative ease of application.
In addition a good deep mulch will tend to smother weed growth, because even strong growing weeds require light immediately after germination from seed, and this requirement is automatically denied them. The exceptions that manage to thrust their way through the mulch are generally suffering from the effects of etiolation and are spindly, puny caricatures of their normal selves.
With regards to the weed problem, it was mentioned earlier in this chapter that it is essential to keep the dahlia plot free from weeds by regular hoeing. This is very true in the first few weeks after planting, but after this, say from the middle of July onwards, a hoe may well cause more harm than good because its over zealous use may damage the young feeder roots, which will have spread well out over the ground by this time, as well as being very close to the surface.
From this stage onwards it is better to keep the weeds down by hand pulling. The wisdom of providing wider pathways every other row will be easily seen, otherwise the whole of the dahlia plot would become hard trodden. - 22375
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